Surfaris adventure cont...
15/01/2007
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The boards.Let’s go Surfing Now I had tried surfing before but it was a revelation to finally work out what it’s all about. I realised surfing is more of an art form than a sport. But it’s also like walking or driving – it becomes a natural thing you do. Yes, you use your body (and you get darn fit – lovin' the new lats!); but it’s the mind work that is the most amazing part. Scoping the waves at the endless beach.

Surfing is so addictive - like a dog chasing a ball you just go back and back and back and back and back through the waves to catch that one sweet ride. And once you do – you want another one! Being a beginner, I spent hours and hours getting dumped. Now I am an Aussie, and to say my pride was hurt in this battle against my old gentle friend the sea was an understatement.
Paddle, paddle, paddle!At one point on day three near Coffs Harbour I emerged from under a dumper with bruised knees and water so far up my nosepipes that I wanted to cry with frustration. Voices in my head were shouting “You’re never going to get it!” That was the moment when Plenko called us all in for another lesson. He may or may not have noted my zinc-covered frown, but he told me to grab a bigger board (the bigger ones are easier) and head out in the shallow water and catch the broken waves instead. Baby steps.

The sweet ride...Plenko and Pat spent the next half an hour pushing myself and the other less confident surfers (the good ones were out the back on the ‘green waves’) onto these small ones and refining our stance. After that I was good to go on my own. And away I went, jumping up and catching five baby waves into the shore (squealing as I went) – what a feeling! I will never forget that morning. Ems and I even caught a wave together and surfed along holding hands and dancing for the camera.

Ems and I entertain the troops with a rendition of "Happy Little Vegemites".Zen and the Art of being a Grommit The key for me (after I got the paddling muscles and fitness down) was controlling the way I think when I’m out there. I had to learn:
1. Surfing is not a competition, it’s about having fun. You can enjoy the paddle out, sitting out there and getting dumped as much as the ride in.
2. It actually takes YEARS – not just one week - to learn to surf and it’s something you can always improve on.
3. It doesn’t matter who you are or what board you’re on – just give it a go even if you look like a spaz.
4. Eyes front, eyes front, eyes front.
5. Say to yourself, “That’s great!” and give yourself some encouragement!
6. As long as you keep moving you’re getting a great workout so don’t just sit out the back – KEEP TRYING!

Cute boys, a board and waves... all you need! That's it - think happy thoughts and away you go - you're surfing. A surf camp was a great way to get on a roll as a beginner - having all the boards, wetsuits, coaching and perfect beginner waves all there for us. And on the second last night Plenko and Pat gave us the best talk on the history of surfing – I think we all felt initiated after that. Do this trip if you can, or do another one in your state. For the experience it is an absolute bargain. I’ll be back on sarfari with
Surfaris ASAP.